Body Double

I have had my Grey Lady for several years, and I have never been satisfied with her. No matter how adjustable she is, she is NOT my size. I have never been able to put a corset on her, and she was only good for hanging things on.  So, after seeing a lot of references to duck tape dress forms, I decided to fix her. I don't have a before picture, but let's just say that recently, she broke a hip, and was looking like the victim of severe scoliosis.

Here she is now, wearing one of my store-bought corsets

I used a lot of fiberfill padding, duck tape and a measuring tape. Now she's just my size, although the boobs still aren't quite right - the ones on the mannikin are in a weird place and they don't squish properly. I have to say that it wasn't as depressing as I thought it might be. I've gained a lot of weight in the last couple of years, but after looking at her, I don't feel so bad about it.

HSF Challenge #4 - Under It All

The Challenge: Under it all
Fabric: Printed Cotton
Pattern: None
Year: 1875
Notions: hook and eye
How historically accurate is it?   Aside from the polyester firberfill, it's as accurate as it can get.
Hours to complete: Two episodes of Project Runway, and one Ghost Hunters (perhaps a little more. I didn't like its first incarnation because it was too wide even for my butt, so I cut it down.)
First worn: Not yet.
Total cost: Well, I had just bought this fabric for my stash, so I guess I have to count it. 2 yards at $6.66, so $13.32.

First, I am desperate need of another bustle pad, so the choice was easy. I had been looking at this one at the V&A Museum for a while now - I just love paisley - and decided to do something like that.

The original inspiration is also cotton paisley, but it's huge! After looking closely, I realized that it had started life as a smaller, two-tiered pad. The two lower pads were added later. You can see that while the fabric is very close, it's not the same.  So I settled for a three-tiered compromise. I also wanted something that woud be more of a late 1880s "shelf", so I didn't make it as round. Perhaps I should have. Oh, well, that's what happens when you are working without a pattern while watching TV after work. I think it will work, though.

HSF Challenge #3

The Challenge: Pink

Fabric: Cotton, cotton blend

Pattern: Janet Arnold, 1887 skirt

Year:1887

Notions: none

How historically accurate is it?  Not terribly. The fabric is all wrong, although the construction is right for the time period. The color is ok, too.

Hours to complete:  Approximately 6

First worn: Will be worn for a stage costume, under a much nicer draped over skirt.

Total cost: $2.99 for thread.  All else from my stash.

I consider this a failure. The real challenge was finding enough pink fabric in my stash.  What I found is all wrong for the design. The darker pink was allright - it is a heavy, moire-style cotton I had dyed pink several years ago. But there wasn't enough, so I used this pink/green check with it. The pink/green is too light, so the folds do not keep their shape.  Oh, well. It's good enough to wear under a better draped over skirt that will cover most of it.

 

Nellie Boyd's 1905 Dress Part 1

In the past, I have not posted detailed progress reports of my projects as many bloggers do, mainly because I am self-taught, and I wouldn't want anyone to think that this is "the way it should be done." A lot of my methods are trial and error discoveries. But, since this is my sewing blog, and I have been doing this long enough to at least pretend I know what I'm doing, I want to start documenting my sewing projects. I start with this 1905 dress that needs to be finished by February 21st.

Nellie Boyd (1851-1909) was a famous and well-loved actress in the old west. She travelled by stage coach in the early days, and then by train as the railroad spread west. Hers was the first professional theatre troupe to come to El Paso back in 1881. For that reason, I chose her as my alter-ego, and have done extensive research. In February, I will give my first public talk as Miss Boyd.

I chose a 1905 dress because I am speaking as the retired Miss Boyd, who now owns a raisin farm in Fresno (don't laugh, she was very successful!)  In her waining years, she did speak now and then in various venues, though probably not at a Rancher's Grill. I also just really like the fashion of that era and wanted an excuse to make a dress.

This is my starting point:

Jacques Doucet (French, Paris 1853–1929 Paris)

Afternoon Dress, ca. 1903
Metropolitan Museum of Art

Yes, I know its says 1903, but what's two years between friends? Anyway, I found some beautiful periwinkle blue polyester that really has the look and feel of silk (as much as polyester can.) I also scored some cotton lace and trim.

I am using Simplicity Costume pattern #9723 because I never learned how to make my own pattern, but I have gotten pretty good at fiddling with commercial ones to make them do what I want. I started with the bodice. I have some polished cotton as a lining/foundation. I attached the lace to it for the bib and collar.

The pattern - and historical accuracy - calls for stays on the bodice. I usually use spiral bones, but I only had steel short ones, so the don't bend pretty.

The pattern also calls for attaching the outer layer to the lining, which I did. I made the outer layer a little bigger, because I wanted more of a pooch on the pigeon pouter part of the bodice. It's rather pronounced on the model, but scaled back in the modern pattern. Also, the pattern did not require a lining on the back half of the bodice (really?) I fixed that, too.

 This is before I sewed the side seams. I was reluctant to, because I really should have applied the embellishments before I put it together, but I am just having a hard time deciding exactly what I want on it and how to use my lace to its best advantage. So, I will complete it, and the skirt as well, and then decide. It will be trickier to to attach, but I will be happier knowing what it will look like.

This is where it stands now. Next up, the sleeves and the skirt.

Stressed Out

I tend to get stressed out this close to show time, especially when we aren't finished making the costumes. I know I'm stressed out because everything anyone does just irritates the hell out of me. Giggling teenage girls were the culprits yesterday, and it isn't like I can avoid them in a high school.

Another thing that bothers me, though less so, is that when my best seamstress looked at a dress I was debating on a closure for and said "I can put a zipper in that, easy," I said YES!  A zipper!!! Gah!  But, at this point, I just want it done.  Plenty of Puritans had zippers - in The Crucible.  I'm sure my dress did when I played Rebecca Nurse in the 70s.  So much for my lofty costuming aspirations.

Again With the Blog!!

I have gone too long without a blog. I realize I really need one when I am sewing, because just posting to FB is limiting.  So, the new blog.

Things  I am currently working on:

My son's Sack Coat Suit ca. 1880
Costumes for The Crucible
My fiance's 1880's Sheriff/Cattle Baron/Old West/Wedding outfit
My wedding dress (mostly finished)
Wedding favors - they'll be real cute!

So, look for this stuff in the future.