Nellie Boyd's 1905 Dress Part 1

In the past, I have not posted detailed progress reports of my projects as many bloggers do, mainly because I am self-taught, and I wouldn't want anyone to think that this is "the way it should be done." A lot of my methods are trial and error discoveries. But, since this is my sewing blog, and I have been doing this long enough to at least pretend I know what I'm doing, I want to start documenting my sewing projects. I start with this 1905 dress that needs to be finished by February 21st.

Nellie Boyd (1851-1909) was a famous and well-loved actress in the old west. She travelled by stage coach in the early days, and then by train as the railroad spread west. Hers was the first professional theatre troupe to come to El Paso back in 1881. For that reason, I chose her as my alter-ego, and have done extensive research. In February, I will give my first public talk as Miss Boyd.

I chose a 1905 dress because I am speaking as the retired Miss Boyd, who now owns a raisin farm in Fresno (don't laugh, she was very successful!)  In her waining years, she did speak now and then in various venues, though probably not at a Rancher's Grill. I also just really like the fashion of that era and wanted an excuse to make a dress.

This is my starting point:

Jacques Doucet (French, Paris 1853–1929 Paris)

Afternoon Dress, ca. 1903
Metropolitan Museum of Art

Yes, I know its says 1903, but what's two years between friends? Anyway, I found some beautiful periwinkle blue polyester that really has the look and feel of silk (as much as polyester can.) I also scored some cotton lace and trim.

I am using Simplicity Costume pattern #9723 because I never learned how to make my own pattern, but I have gotten pretty good at fiddling with commercial ones to make them do what I want. I started with the bodice. I have some polished cotton as a lining/foundation. I attached the lace to it for the bib and collar.

The pattern - and historical accuracy - calls for stays on the bodice. I usually use spiral bones, but I only had steel short ones, so the don't bend pretty.

The pattern also calls for attaching the outer layer to the lining, which I did. I made the outer layer a little bigger, because I wanted more of a pooch on the pigeon pouter part of the bodice. It's rather pronounced on the model, but scaled back in the modern pattern. Also, the pattern did not require a lining on the back half of the bodice (really?) I fixed that, too.

 This is before I sewed the side seams. I was reluctant to, because I really should have applied the embellishments before I put it together, but I am just having a hard time deciding exactly what I want on it and how to use my lace to its best advantage. So, I will complete it, and the skirt as well, and then decide. It will be trickier to to attach, but I will be happier knowing what it will look like.

This is where it stands now. Next up, the sleeves and the skirt.